The Sleeping Beauty: A Galapagos Travel Guide for Nomads

A Journey to the Galapagos

Stepping into the islands of the Galapagos felt like diving into the pages of my high school biology book—a place I had only heard about from my professor, envisioning it as a mystical realm accessible only to scientists. But when I finally got my diving license, I knew I had to discover more of the underwater life.

Upon arriving on Isla Baltra of the Galapagos, I was surprised by the landscape, expecting lush beaches but instead encountering scorching heat, desolate terrain, and cacti. Yet, amidst this seemingly harsh environment, there was an undeniable allure that beckoned exploration. Navigating through the airport grounds, I was greeted by the songs of finches and the sight of a solitary, imposing iguana. After figuring out the system and reading countless blogs about the trek to the main town, I managed to find myself a bus that would bring me to my next stop. As we traversed Isla Baltra’s arid expanse, reminiscent of scenes from the novel "Holes," iguanas basked lazily on the sun-baked pavement, a testament to the island's unique inhabitants.

Arriving at the ferry terminal, I marveled at the brief yet captivating voyage across the waters. Despite my ponderings about the absence of a bridge, the short 3-minute boat ride provided an alluring preview of the Galapagos' natural wonders, with lounging sea lions and graceful pelicans flying above the sea. Opting for a taxi to my accommodation, I was greeted by a driver whose broken English and animated gestures conveyed a warmth and hospitality that transcended language barriers, especially with my little knowledge of Spanish limited to "Hola," "Gracias," and "Aqui," which translates to "Hi," "Thank you," and "Here."

As the ferry terminal faded from view, the frantic pace of arrival gave way to a serene tranquility. The 45-minute journey afforded a glimpse of a large tortoise ambling along the sidewalk, a humorous reminder of the island's leisurely tempo. I joked to myself that the “tortoise had probably been walking on that sidewalk for 2 weeks and only reached 1 mile.” Then my taxi driver, eager to share local insights, gestured towards local preserved beaches and a popular tortoise ranch, setting the stage for my Galapagos sojourn.

Arriving at my Airbnb, I was welcomed by Bladmir, my host, whose gracious demeanor eased my transition into island life. I eagerly connected to the WiFi, to engage in a proper conversation with him through a translation app, and I couldn't help but marvel at the accommodations that would serve as my home for the ensuing two weeks. I will link his Airbnb listing underneath for nomad travelers wishing to see the island as well. The place was close enough to reach everything by foot but far enough to still be surrounded by local homes and family-owned shops.

Venturing into town, I found Puerto Ayora to be a beautiful example of harmonious coexistence between humanity and wildlife. Parque San Francisco offered a glimpse into daily life on the island, where iguanas, pelicans, and sea lions mingled effortlessly with locals and visitors alike. It's funny because I would see the same animals during the course of my days in town, and I would sometimes just observe and watch them as they drowse to sleep. What initially seemed exotic soon became familiar, a testament to the Galapagos' unique charm. I remember just watching this one sea lion try to get some rest, but the rest of his companions would accidentally slap or headbutt him awake.

Wandering through the town's quaint streets, I was struck by its laid-back pace, a stark departure from the hectic energy of urban life back in Guayaquil. Here, amidst the sun-drenched landscape and gentle sea breeze, time seemed to slow to a leisurely crawl. My big city walking speed definitely brought attention to locals who properly wondered what my rush was. Engaging with locals, I discovered a community bound by shared warmth and hospitality, where smiles were abundant.

The town wasn't large, and I managed to see everything by foot. But it is one of the only places I did not need a plan, but simply watching the people and the wildlife coexist in a lazy slumber was enough to occupy my time. Reflecting on my time in Puerto Ayora, I couldn't help but succumb to its enchanting allure. The unhurried rhythms of life, the abundance of wildlife, and the unwavering hospitality of its people imbued the town with a sense of belonging.

As I reminisce about the tortoise "walking on that sidewalk for 2 weeks," I realize that perhaps slowness isn't a deficiency but a virtue, a testament to the island's timeless embrace of life's simple pleasures.

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From landing in Isla Baltra to Puerto Ayora

This Galapagos Travel Guide for Nomads wouldn't be a full guide without the one thing that I would always search online before I travel to a place.

This is a must read guide for anyone visiting the Galapagos and figuring out how to get there!

Once you arrive at Galápagos Ecologic Airport, you will need to pay a $100 cash National Park fee to enter. I've seen a group of travelers struggling to get cash from the airport, thinking they could use their credit card. Luckily, for my American readers, Ecuador uses USD, so you won't need to scramble to the nearest money exchange. Then, you can pick up your checked baggage and head towards the bus station.

If you're like me and were one of the last people to go through security, you may be greeted with a long line, especially if two planes landed at the same time. Keep in mind you'll need to purchase a $5 cash bus ticket just outside around the corner; it's not hard to miss. There is no other transportation to bring you to the next stop, so this is mandatory unless you want to walk a 40-minute trek through the scorching sun.

After the bus ride, you'll be dropped off at a small ferry terminal. The bus driver will load your baggage onto the ferry, so you don't have to worry about it; just keep an eye on which boat they put it on so you don't panic when it's not at the other terminal. The fee for the ferry ride is $1 cash, and you'll pay inside the boat. The boat ride is 4-5 minutes short.

Then you'll end up in the terminal right across.

Once you've got your bag, you can opt to either take a bus that will take you to the town center of Puerto Ayora for $5 cash OR you can take a taxi for $25 cash. The ride is around 30-40 minutes long, but keep your eyes peeled for wildlife roaming around. The taxis in the Galapagos are white pickup trucks; they're not hard to miss in the future if you're trying to grab one in town. They will always have a logo on the side that states that it's a taxi, but it may be too small. If they accept your ride, they would usually use their hazard signal.

The taxis in the Galapagos can also serve as your guide, taking you to 2 craters and the Tortoise Ranch for $40-60, depending on how long they'll have to wait for you at the points of interest. You can definitely negotiate a price beforehand. The taxis are all very nice and wouldn't try to swindle you for more. And when going back to the airport, you do everything the other way and ferries and buses will always be available there.

Once you've reached Puerto Ayora, taxis to go anywhere in town will always be $1.50 cash.

The town will have numerous travel agencies, so you'll always have options for things to do!